Lijiang Ancient Town: A Guide for Music Lovers

The cobblestone streets of Lijiang Ancient Town, a UNESCO World Heritage site nestled in Yunnan Province, hum with a melody all their own. For most travelers, the allure lies in its well-preserved Naxi architecture, the meandering canals, and the breathtaking backdrop of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain. But for those who listen closely—for the music lovers, the sonic explorers, the rhythm seekers—Lijiang reveals itself as one of China’s most captivating and unexpected musical destinations. This is not a place of grand concert halls; it’s a living, breathing soundscape where ancient harmonies, folk traditions, and modern musical fusions float on the thin, high-altitude air. This guide is for you, the traveler who journeys with a soundtrack in mind.

The Ancient Soundscape: Naxi Ancient Music

To understand music in Lijiang is to first understand the Naxi people and their most treasured cultural artifact: Naxi Ancient Music (Naxi Guyue). This isn't merely folk music; it’s a living fossil, a form of Taoist ritual music that dates back to the Tang and Song dynasties. It was preserved in its relatively pure form in this remote corner of China while it disappeared from most other regions.

Where to Experience It: The Dongjing Music Hall

No visit for a music lover is complete without an evening at the Dongjing Music Hall. The experience itself is a performance. You enter a traditional Naxi courtyard building, taking a seat on wooden benches. On stage, you won’t see conservatory-trained young prodigies, but rather elderly Naxi gentlemen, often in their seventies and eighties, with long, wispy beards and traditional gowns. They are the revered masters, the ones who have kept this tradition alive.

Their instruments are as ancient as the scores: the guqin (a seven-stringed zither), the pipa (a pear-shaped lute), sheng (a mouth-blown free reed instrument), and various bamboo flutes and percussion instruments. The music is ethereal, slow, and meditative. It’s not about catchy melodies but about texture, atmosphere, and spiritual resonance. The songs have names like "Wave-Washing Sands" and "Divine Water," transporting listeners to another time. Appreciating it requires patience, but the reward is a profound connection to a musical tradition that is utterly unique to this place.

The Legendary Keeper of the Flame: Xuan Ke

Any discussion of Naxi Ancient Music is incomplete without mentioning the late Xuan Ke. He was the charismatic, often controversial, master who became the international face of this tradition. Fluent in English, he would famously interrupt performances with lengthy, humorous, and philosophical explanations of the music, its history, and its connection to the cosmos. While today's performances are more formal, his spirit undoubtedly lingers. He was instrumental in transforming this ancient ritual into a must-see cultural performance, ensuring its survival and funding through tourism.

Beyond the Ancient: The Folk Pulse of Sifang Street

As the sun sets, the epicenter of Lijiang shifts to Sifang Street (the town square). While it can be crowded, it pulses with a more immediate, grassroots musical energy. This is where you encounter the folk music of the Naxi and other local ethnic groups like the Bai and Yi.

Spontaneous Street Performances

As you navigate the radiating streets from the square, you’ll stumble upon small circles of people gathered around performers. Often, these are Naxi women, dressed in their traditional traditional attire—the tunic and sheepskin shawl—dancing in a circle to a simple, rhythmic tune. The dance is called "Re Shuo Shuo" and it’s a communal activity. Don’t be shy; tourists are often pulled into the circle to join the fun. It’s a clumsy, joyful, and utterly authentic way to connect with the local culture.

You might also hear the haunting sound of the lüsheng, a bamboo mouth organ played by Yi musicians, or the gentle strumming of a sanxian (a three-stringed lute). These aren’t scheduled performances; they are moments of musical spontaneity. Keep your ears open and follow the sound.

The Modern Beat: Bars, Cafes, and a Musical Hub

Lijiang’s identity isn’t stuck in the past. Over the last two decades, it has become a bohemian magnet for artists, poets, and musicians from all over China. This has created a fascinating modern music scene that blends seamlessly with the ancient town’s aesthetic.

Bar Street and the "Voice of Lijiang"

Along the canals, particularly on Xinhua Street, you’ll find "Bar Street." By day, it’s a peaceful stretch of waterwheels and willow trees. By night, it transforms. The open-fronted bars compete not just with neon lights but with live music. From acoustic sets of Chinese folk ballads (mín yáo) to full-band covers of Western rock classics, the energy is infectious. It’s loud, it’s lively, and it’s a completely different side of Lijiang’s musical personality.

For a more curated experience, seek out smaller, hidden bars and cafes in the quieter lanes. These are often run by musicians themselves and feature more original music. You might hear a singer-songwriter from Beijing strumming a guitar and singing about life on the road, their lyrics echoing the feelings of many who are drawn to Lijiang’s romantic allure.

Lijiang's Music Festival Scene

A major hotspot in the regional tourism calendar is the annual Snow Mountain Music Festival. Held against the staggering backdrop of the Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, this festival has grown into one of China's most prestigious outdoor music events. It expertly bridges the gap between the town's traditional roots and its modern vibe. The lineup is a thrilling mix: internationally renowned DJs, top Chinese rock and pop bands, and, crucially, folk artists representing the ethnic groups of Yunnan. For a music lover, timing your trip to coincide with this festival is the ultimate win. It’s a powerful experience, feeling the bass reverberate through the valley while ancient mountains look on.

For the Truly Adventurous: Seeking Out the Dongba Chants

For the most intrepid musical anthropologist, the deepest layer of Lijiang’s soundscape is the ancient chant of the Dongba priests. Dongba is the original shamanistic religion of the Naxi people, and its rituals involve mesmerizing, hypnotic chants sung by priests using sacred texts written in the world’s last surviving pictographic language. This is not entertainment; it is a sacred and dwindling practice.

It is rare to witness a genuine Dongba ritual, as they are not performed for tourists. However, the Naxi Dongba Culture Museum in town offers valuable insights into the tradition, and you may find recordings or very occasional cultural demonstrations. The sound is primal and spiritual, a direct sonic link to the prehistoric beliefs of this region.

Building Your Musical Itinerary: A Practical Symphony

Must-Do Experiences:

• Attend a Naxi Ancient Music concert at the Dongjing Music Hall. Book tickets in advance during peak season.
• Get lost in the streets at dusk. Follow your ears to find spontaneous folk dancing and street musicians.
• Spend an evening on Bar Street. Soak up the modern, high-energy vibe with a local Lijiang Snow beer in hand.
• Check the calendar for the Snow Mountain Music Festival or smaller local events during your travel dates.

What to Listen For & Take Home:

• Recordings: Look for CDs of Naxi Ancient Music sold outside the concert hall. They make for a unique sonic souvenir.
• Instruments: Small, souvenir-grade pipa or hulusi (a gourd wind instrument common in Yunnan) are popular purchases.
• Modern Sounds: Explore Chinese music streaming platforms like NetEase Cloud Music or QQ Music and search for "丽江民谣" (Lijiang Folk) or artists who have performed at the Snow Mountain Festival to build a pre-trip playlist.

Lijiang is a multi-movement symphony. It begins with the slow, adagio movement of the ancient masters, moves into the lively folk dance scherzo of Sifang Street, and culminates in the modern allegro of its bar and festival scene. For the music lover, it offers a journey of discovery unlike any other, proving that the soul of a place can truly be found in its sound.